When I first moved here, someone told me Victoria had castles and I assumed they meant one fancy old house with a turret. Turns out we have two proper ones. Both were built by the same wildly rich (and wildly dramatic) family, and both are easy to reach from downtown on a budget.
Here's my local's guide to Craigdarroch Castle and Hatley Castle: the history, what's worth your time, and how to get there.
A Quick Bit of Backstory: The Dunsmuirs
You can't talk about Victoria's castles without the Dunsmuir family. Robert Dunsmuir made a huge fortune in Vancouver Island coal in the 1800s and became one of the richest men in western Canada. His son James Dunsmuir carried on the business and went on to become Premier of British Columbia and later Lieutenant Governor.
One family, two castles, two generations. Visit both and you get the whole story, from Victorian excess to Edwardian country estate.
Craigdarroch Castle
The history
Robert Dunsmuir started building Craigdarroch in the late 1880s, high on a hill in the Rockland neighbourhood, so it would look out over the city. Sadly (and a bit ironically) he died before it was finished. His widow, Joan, moved in and lived there for the rest of her life.
After the family era, the castle had a surprisingly busy second career. It served as a military hospital after the First World War, then as a college, then as school board offices and later a music conservatory. Today it's run as a museum and is a National Historic Site of Canada.
What to see
- The woodwork and stained glass. This is the showstopper. The castle is full of detailed carved wood and gorgeous original stained-glass windows. On a sunny day the light coming through is unreal.
- Period rooms. Each floor is furnished to show how a wealthy Victorian family actually lived: parlours, bedrooms, the dining room, and the little details that tell you who had money and who did the dusting.
- The tower view. Keep climbing to the top for a view over Victoria. On a clear day you can see out over the rooftops to the water.
- The family drama. The displays don't shy away from the Dunsmuir feuds, including lawsuits and siblings not speaking. It's basically a period soap opera with better furniture.
Local tips:
- Wear comfy shoes. There are a *lot* of stairs, and accessibility above the main floor is limited, so check their site if that matters for your group.
- It's a self-guided visit, so go at your own pace. I'd budget around an hour to an hour and a half.
- Check thecastle.ca for current hours and rates before you go.
Getting there from downtown
- Walk: It's roughly a 25–30 minute walk from Ocean Island, heading east up Fort Street and into Rockland. It's mostly uphill, so you'll earn the view. The Rockland streets are lovely, with big old houses and huge trees.
- Bus: Several BC Transit routes run along Fort Street toward Rockland. Hop off near the top of the hill and it's a short walk up. Check bctransit.com for the current route and schedule.
- Bonus stop: While you're in Rockland, wander over to the gardens at Government House, the official residence of the Lieutenant Governor, just a short walk away. The grounds are a peaceful spot for a stroll.
Hatley Castle
The history
This is James Dunsmuir's castle, finished in 1908 and designed by Samuel Maclure, one of BC's best-known architects. It sits on a big waterfront estate in Colwood, west of Victoria. James wanted a grand country estate, and he got one, complete with formal gardens, old-growth forest and views across the lagoon.
In 1940 the federal government bought the estate, and it became a naval training establishment and later Royal Roads Military College. Today the grounds are home to Royal Roads University, and the castle is a National Historic Site.
It also has a second life as a movie star. If it looks familiar, that's because Hatley Castle has stood in for Professor Xavier's mansion in the *X-Men* films and the Luthor mansion in *Smallville*, among many others. Film nerds, you're welcome.
What to see
- The gardens. For me these are the real highlight. There's a Japanese garden, an Italian garden and a rose garden, all set against forest and ocean views. Spring and summer are peak bloom, but it's beautiful year-round. Even in our famous drizzle, it's very moody and romantic.
- The castle exterior. Grey stone, turrets and ivy. It's the classic "castle" look.
- The museum and tours. There's a museum on site, and guided castle tours run at certain times of year. Schedules shift with the seasons, so check hatleypark.ca for current tours, hours and rates.
- Walking trails. The estate has trails through the woods and down toward the water. Bring layers and give yourself a couple of hours.
Getting there from downtown
Hatley is about a 25–30 minute drive west of downtown, but you don't need a car.
- Bike the Galloping Goose: This is my favourite way to go. The Galloping Goose Regional Trail starts near downtown and runs west through View Royal and Colwood, passing close to the Royal Roads estate. It's mostly flat and car-free, and a good way to see the West Shore. Plan for an hour-ish each way at a relaxed pace, plus whatever snack stops you require.
- Bus: BC Transit routes run from downtown out to the West Shore and Colwood. Check bctransit.com or ask us for the best connection, since routes do change.
Make a day of it: Fisgard Lighthouse
Hatley is right next door to Fort Rodd Hill and Fisgard Lighthouse, the first permanent lighthouse on Canada's west coast. Pair the two for a full West Shore day of castles, cannons and a cute lighthouse. Check Parks Canada's site for current seasonal hours.
Which Castle Should You Visit?
- Short on time or no bike? Go to Craigdarroch. It's walkable from downtown and the interiors are the star.
- Love gardens, trails and the outdoors? Head to Hatley. The grounds and the bike ride out are half the fun.
- Got a full weekend? Do both. Seeing the father's castle and then the son's really brings the Dunsmuir story together.
For more ideas around the region, Tourism Victoria has a good roundup of things to do.
Come say hi at the Ocean Island front desk before you head out. We'll help you sort out bus routes, point you toward bike options, and share a few castle-day tips of our own.