Victoria does a lot of things well — whale watching, fish and chips, dramatic sunsets over the harbour — but nothing quite stops first-time visitors in their tracks like realising the city has *actual castles*. Not theme-park replicas. Real stone towers, turrets, and stories thick enough to fill a novel. Here's everything you need to know about both.
Craigdarroch Castle — Victoria's Victorian Showpiece
The Story Behind the Stone
Built in the late 1880s for coal baron Robert Dunsmuir, Craigdarroch Castle was meant to be a statement — and it landed. Dunsmuir had made an enormous fortune from Vancouver Island's coal mines, and he wanted a home to match. Sadly, he died before it was completed, leaving his wife Joan to move in and enjoy the place he'd built to impress her.
The castle changed hands a few times after that: it served as a military hospital after World War I, then a conservatory of music, then a school board office, before locals rallied to restore and preserve it in the 1970s. The community saving its own castle — very Victoria.
What You'll Actually See
Four floors of beautifully restored Victorian interiors, and the staff genuinely know their stuff. Highlights include:
- The stained glass — room after room of intricate windows, each one telling a piece of the family's story
- The woodwork — the craftsmanship on the staircases and fireplaces is almost absurd in its detail
- The tower views — climb to the top and you get one of the best panoramas of Victoria, the Olympic Mountains, and on a clear day, the Strait of Juan de Fuca
- The period furnishings — the rooms are dressed as they would have looked in the 1890s, so it genuinely feels like stepping back in time
Self-guided tours are the standard, with booklets in multiple languages. Budget about 45 minutes to an hour, more if you're the type to linger (I always linger).
Getting There from Downtown
Craigdarroch is in the Rockland neighbourhood, about a 25-minute walk uphill from downtown — doable and scenic. If you'd rather take the bus, BC Transit has routes that will get you close; check their trip planner or ask at the Ocean Island front desk for the easiest option. Check tourismvictoria.com for current hours and admission before you go — seasonal hours can shift.
Hatley Castle — The Other Castle (That Most Tourists Miss)
The Story Behind the Stone
If Craigdarroch was Robert Dunsmuir's dream, Hatley was his son James taking that dream and turning the dial to eleven. Built in 1908 on a jaw-dropping waterfront estate in Colwood — just west of Victoria — Hatley Castle was designed to be one of the grandest private homes in Canada. The grounds alone ran to several thousand acres. James reportedly told his architect: "Money doesn't matter, just build what I want." Reader, they built it.
James Dunsmuir's tenure as both Premier and Lieutenant Governor of BC means the castle carries real political history too, not just domestic drama. The estate later became Royal Roads Military College, and today it's home to Royal Roads University, which means the building is still very much alive and in use.
What You'll Actually See
Hatley is a different experience from Craigdarroch — wilder, more atmospheric, and honestly a bit cinematic (it's been used as a filming location more than once, including for *X-Men* movies, if that's your kind of trivia).
- The castle exterior and gardens — the formal Italian, Japanese, and rose gardens surrounding the castle are stunning, especially in spring and early summer
- Guided interior tours — these run seasonally and need to be booked in advance; interior access isn't always available, so check ahead
- The grounds walk — even on days without interior tours, wandering the gardens and the waterfront trail is a genuinely lovely way to spend a couple of hours
- The architecture — built in a Scottish Baronial style, the exterior is dramatic in a way that makes you want to immediately start writing a gothic novel
Getting There from Downtown
Hatley is further out — in Colwood, about 20 kilometres west of the city centre — so it's best combined with a plan. Options include:
- Bus: BC Transit runs routes toward Colwood; it takes a bit longer but is affordable. Check bctransit.com for current routes and schedules.
- Cycling: The Galloping Goose Regional Trail runs all the way out to Colwood and beyond — a gorgeous ride if you've got the legs for a longer day out. Bike rentals are available near Ocean Island; ask at the front desk.
- Rideshare or taxi: Quickest option if you're short on time.
Check the Royal Roads University website for current garden hours and tour availability before making the trip — it's a bit of a journey, so you want to know the grounds are open.
Two Castles, Two Very Different Vibes
If I had to sum them up:
- Craigdarroch is the *urban castle* — walkable, polished, and packed with Victorian detail. Great for a half-morning.
- Hatley is the *escape* — wilder, more romantic, worth making a proper day of it.
Honestly? Do both. Victoria is one of the very few places on the continent where that sentence even makes sense.
Have questions about the best way to combine a castle visit with whale watching, a trail ride, or anything else on your Victoria list? Swing by the Ocean Island front desk — we're happy to help you put together a day (or three) you'll actually remember.
