People are always a bit surprised when I tell them Victoria has castles. Not "castle-themed" anything. Actual stone-and-turret, built-by-a-coal-baron castles. When I first arrived I assumed it was a tourist exaggeration. Then I walked up the hill in Rockland, turned a corner, and there it was, looking like it had wandered over from Scotland and decided to stay. Relatable, honestly.
We have two: Craigdarroch Castle, an uphill walk from downtown, and Hatley Castle, out on the West Shore. Both were built by the same family, the Dunsmuirs, and both make a great half-day out. Here's what you need to know.
A Quick Bit of Family Drama (aka the History)
The Dunsmuirs made an enormous fortune in coal on Vancouver Island in the late 1800s. Robert Dunsmuir was the patriarch. His son James Dunsmuir went on to become Premier of BC and later Lieutenant Governor. Between them, they built two of the most impressive homes on the West Coast. Throw in inheritance squabbles, family feuds and very big money, and you've basically got a period drama that writes itself.
Craigdarroch Castle
The story
Robert Dunsmuir had Craigdarroch built in the late 1880s as a grand family home on the hill above the city. In a sad twist, he died in 1889 before it was finished and never got to live in it. His widow, Joan, moved in and lived there until her death in 1908.
After that, the castle had a surprisingly busy second life. Over the decades it served as a military hospital, a college, school board offices and a music conservatory. Eventually it was restored and opened as a museum, which is how we get to wander through it today.
What to see
- The stained glass. It's genuinely spectacular, especially on a sunny day when the light pours through. (We get a lot of rain, won't lie, but it's beautiful either way.)
- The woodwork. Intricate carved panelling throughout. Someone spent a very long time on this.
- Period rooms set up the way a wealthy Victorian-era family would have lived, with furniture, clothing and the small personal details that make it feel lived-in.
- The climb to the top. It's a lot of stairs, but the views out over the city and toward the water are worth every one.
- Rockland itself. The neighbourhood is full of grand old heritage homes and leafy streets, so it's a lovely area for a wander.
It's a self-guided visit, so go at your own pace. Plan on an hour or two if you like to read every plaque (no judgement, I'm the same).
Getting there from downtown
- Walk: It's a pleasant walk east from downtown, roughly half an hour from Ocean Island, mostly heading out along Fort Street and then up into Rockland. The last stretch is uphill, so wear comfy shoes.
- Bus: Several BC Transit routes run along Fort Street and drop you within a short walk of the castle. Routes and schedules change, so check the trip planner at bctransit.com or ask at the front desk. Bring exact change if you're paying cash on board.
- Bike: Very doable, but the hill at the end will make you earn it.
Make it a half day
It's only a short walk from Craigdarroch to the grounds of Government House, also in Rockland, where the gardens are open to wander. Afterward, head back down toward downtown, or detour to the cafés along Cook Street Village for a well-deserved coffee.
Hatley Castle
The story
Not to be outdone by Dad, James Dunsmuir built Hatley Castle in 1908 on a huge waterfront estate in what's now Colwood, on the West Shore. It's an Edwardian beauty set in stunning grounds, and it was very much the family's country retreat.
After the Dunsmuir era, the estate became a naval training establishment, then Royal Roads Military College for decades. Today it's home to Royal Roads University, and the estate is protected as Hatley Park National Historic Site.
What to see
- The castle exterior. If it looks familiar, there's a reason. It's been a go-to filming location and has appeared in the X-Men films as Professor Xavier's school, in Smallville as the Luthor mansion, and in Deadpool. Movie nerds, this one's for you.
- The gardens. Formal Japanese, Italian and rose gardens, plus sweeping lawns and old-growth forest. On a clear day, this is one of my favourite spots in the whole region.
- Castle tours and the museum. Guided tours of the castle interior are offered, but availability is seasonal, so check the official Hatley Park or Royal Roads University websites for current tour times and rates before you go.
- The waterfront. The estate looks out over Esquimalt Lagoon, which is a lovely spot for birdwatching and a beach stroll.
Getting there from downtown
Hatley is about a 20 to 30 minute drive west of downtown, depending on traffic. Without a car, you've got options:
- Bus: BC Transit runs from downtown out to the West Shore and Colwood. You may need a transfer depending on the route. Use the trip planner at bctransit.com or ask at the front desk for the easiest connection.
- Bike: The Galloping Goose Regional Trail heads out from near downtown through View Royal and into the West Shore. With a bit of map-checking you can ride much of the way on the trail and finish on local roads. It's a proper ride, so budget a good chunk of the day and pack snacks.
- Drive: If you've rented a car or are getting a lift, it's straightforward. Check the official site for current parking info.
Make it a full day
Hatley is right next door to Fort Rodd Hill and Fisgard Lighthouse, so it's easy to pair the two. Castle in the morning, lighthouse and old military fortifications in the afternoon, then a sunset walk along Esquimalt Lagoon. That's a pretty perfect West Shore day, if you ask me.
Which Castle Should You Visit?
- Short on time or car-free? Go with Craigdarroch. It's walkable from downtown and packed with history inside.
- Love gardens, film locations or a bike adventure? Go with Hatley. The grounds alone are worth the trip.
- Got a couple of days? Do both. You'll get the full Dunsmuir saga, from Dad's city castle to the son's country estate.
A Few Quick Tips
- Opening hours, tour times and admission change through the year, so always check the official websites for current rates and hours before heading out. Tourism Victoria is also a handy place to start.
- Craigdarroch has a lot of stairs and isn't fully accessible, so check the official website ahead of time if mobility is a concern.
- Bring a rain layer. This is the West Coast, after all.
Fancy a castle day? Pop by the Ocean Island front desk. We're happy to help you sort out bus routes, bike directions, and anything else you need to plan your visit.
